Method of shoe production



Sept. 6, 1966 B. BURSHTYN 3,270,359

METHOD OF SHOE PRODUCTION Filed April 25, 1965 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR.

BEEN/I ED BURS N T 7N B. BURSHTYN Sept. 6, 1966 METHOD OF SHOE PRODUCTION 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed April 23, 1965 INVENTOR. 552N020 Buns/row $5 4 M Sept. 6, 1966 B. BURSHTYN METHOD OF SHOE PRODUCTION 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed April 25, 1963 mum United States Patent 3,270,359 METHOD OF SHOE PRODUCTION Bernard Burshtyn, New York, N.Y. (1944 Unionport Road, Bronx, N.Y.) Filed Apr., 23, 1963, Ser. No. 275,086 2 Claims. (Cl. 12-142) This invention relates generally to shoes and to the method of making the same and is a continuation-in-part of applicants copending application Ser. No. 62,409 and now abandoned.

An object of the invention is to produce a shoe, including and particularly a ladies shoe, having a sole assembly which has differential and selective flexibility and which can be made efficiently and cheaply by the sliplast method wherein specific upper and innersole elements after being secured together about their margins are adapted to have a last forced into place therebetween.

Another object of the invention resides in the construction of a shoe having a stiffener element forming part of the shoe sole assembly and adapted by its length and affix-ation to and along the outer face of the innersole to control the area and place of differential flexibility of said assembly. Such structure lends to comfort of wear, economy in commercial production, and equivalency to custom-made products.

A further object of the invention resides in the method of production utilizing the slip-last method and involving the steps of applying and affixing a stiffener element of selective extension to the outer face of the innersole and pulling the shoe upper outer over the upper lining and securing its in-turned margin to the innersole and stiffener elements wherever exposed, and then cementing an outersole in position.

These objects and other incidental ends and advantages of the invention will hereinafter appear in the progress of the disclosure and as pointed out in the appended claims.

Accompanying this specification are drawings showing a form of the invention and method of production wherein:

FIG. 1 is a view in perspective of the upper assembly of a shoe showing an upper lining and an upper outer, the lining being secured to the innersole.

FIG. 2 is an enlarged cross-sectional view of FIG. 1 through the plan 2-2 thereof;

FIG. 3 is a view in perspective showing the assembly of FIG. 1 ready to receive a stiffening element at the outer face of the innersole;

FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view of FIG. 3 through the plane 44 thereof showing the assembly of FIG. 3 with the stiffener element attached, with a last forced in between the lining and innersole and the upper outer turned in for securement to the exposed elements of the lining and stiffener;

FIG. 5 is a longitudinal cross-sectional view of a finished shoe incorporating the invention;

FIG. 6 is a cross-sectional View of FIG. 5 across the plane 6--6 thereof;

FIG. 7 is a view in perspective of the finished shoe, partly cut-away, to illustrate the smooth peripheral edge detail therewithin;

FIG. 8 is a perspective view of a modified form of stiffener element; and

FIG. 9 is a fragmentary and side cross-sectional view similar to FIG. 5 showing a shoe having a modified form of construction incorporating the stiffener element illustrated in FIG. 8.

In accordance with the invention and the preferred form shown, numeral 10 indicates generally an upper shoe assembly having an upper lining 11 of relatively 3,278,359 Patented Sept. 6, 1966 "ice soft material and having a configuration conforming to the sides of the foot. However, an open toe may be provided to conform to required styles. Lining 11 has an upper edge 12 defining an opening 13 and a lower peripheral edge 14. An innersole 15 of similar or other soft material as lining 11 is secured along its marginal edge 16 to the marginal edge of 11 by suit-able means as stitching 17, the said stitching being shown at the fore part, and omitted rearwardly or at the heel area as shown for economic or other reasons.

The upper outer element 18 of the shoe is of conventionally used material such as leather, composition, plastic or the like and is secured as by stitching 19 along the upper peripheral edge to edge 12 of lining 11. The usual stiffening counter 20 may be inserted between the upper 18 and lining 11 at the rear part which defines the heel area.

In order to permit forcing of a last 30 between lining 11 and innersole 15 as stitched together, at least one of the two materials thereof must be stretchable.

A stiffener element 21 of a preselected length of extension from heel to toe which may be of leather, composition, plastic or other relatively rigid material forms part of the sole assembly of the invention. As shown, the stiffener follows the contour of innersole 11 adjacent the edge of stitching 17 either along the full length as shown in FIG. 8 or partially as shown in FIG. 3 and is attached to the outer side by cement as shown. It may be reduced or scrived along its peripheral edges to accommodate the turning in of outer 18 as will appear.

In the modified stiffener shown in FIG. 8, member 25 includes a rear or heel part 26 of relatively thicker material and a fore or toe part 27 of relatively thinner material. Member 25 may be formed from a single piece scrived or reduced at its peripheral edges and at the fore part as at 28.

In the manufacture of a shoe incorporating the invention herein, the marginal areas of lining 11 and innersole 15 are first stitched together as at 17 in FIG. 1 after which the stiffener 21 or 28 is affixed or cemented thereto. Stiffener 21 or 28 extends across the width of innersole 15 and along the said marginal areas. Stiffener 21 or 28 if preferred may be applied before or after a last 30 is forced between the stitched lining 11 and innersole 15. Such stiffener may even be secured to the innersole 15 before even being stitched to lining 11. It is to be noted that the terminal edge of stiffener 21 at the fore part is scrived or reduced as at 28 for smooth junction with innersole 11.

After last 30 is forced between upper or lining 11 and innersole 15 secured together as by stitching 17, stiffener 21 or 28 is applied and affixed to the outer face of 15 if not already done before the lasting as previously mentioned. Thereafter, the upper outer 18 (secured to lining 11 as at stitching 19) is pulled over the lining :and turned in at the margin peripherally for temporary securement to the sole area as against the outer face of stiffener 21 at the heel area as by tacks 20, and at the foreshortened area at the toe region against innersole 15. Thereafter outer sole 31 is applied and cemented over the outer faces of the turned-in margins of outer 18, the stiffener 21 and part of lining 15 or the stiffener 28 covering the full lining area.

It is to be noted as stated that at least one of the upper lining 11 and innersole 15 materials is resiliently stretchable so that a designer is in a position to vary sizes and widths to conform to corresponding sizes and widths of the last without too many variations in sizes and shapes of said lining and innersole.

From the foregoing description, it is understood that minor changes and variations in the invention may be made with respect to the steps of operations and the materials used in the product as to sizes, shapes :and integration thereof.

I claim:

1. In the method of making a shoe, the steps which comprise securing together the marginal portions of a shoe upper lining and an innersole at least about the fore part, forcing a last between said upper lining and innersole, applying and cementing a stiffener sole of selective length from the heel toward the toe against the outer face of said innersole and across the width and along the margins thereof, pulling the shoe upper over the lining, turning and securing the margin of the shoe upper to the sole area, and cementing an outer sole in position.

2. In the method of making a shoe, the steps which comprise securing together the marginal portions of a shoe upper lining and an innersole at least about the fore part, applying and cementing a stiffener of selective length from the heel toward the toe against the outer face of said innersole and across the width and along the margins 4,. thereof, forcing a last between said upper lining and innersole, pulling the shoe upper over the lining, turning and securing the margin of the shoe upper to the sole area, and cementing an outer sole in position.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner. D. I. WILLIAMOWSKY, Examiner. F. J. COHEN, P. D. LAWSON, Assistant Examiners. 

1. IN THE METHOD OF MAKING A SHOE, THE STEPS WHICH COMPRISE SECURING TOGETHER THE MARGINAL PORTIONS OF A SHOE UPPER LINING AND AN INNERSOLE AT LEAST ABOUT THE FORE PART, FORCING A LAST BETWEEN SAID UPPER LINING AND INNERSOLE, APPLYING AND CEMENTING A STIFFENER SOLE OF SELECTIVE LENGTH FROM THE HEEL TOWARD THE TOE AGAINST THE OUTER FACE OF SAID INNERSOLE AND ACROSS THE WIDTH AND ALONG THE MARGINS THEREOF, PULLING THE SHOE UPPER OVER THE LINING, TURNING AND SECURING THE MARGIN OF THE SHOE UPPER TO THE SOLE AREA, AND CEMENTING AN OUTER SOLE IN POSITION. 